Madrid
Madrid may not have the glamour or user-friendliness of Barcelona,
but what it lacks in style it more than makes up for in substance,
with a remarkable collection of museums and galleries, beautiful
parks and gardens and wild nightlife.The
most fitting place to start getting to know Madrid is at Puerta
del Sol. Sol, as it is known to locals, is not much more than
a huge traffic-junction-cum-bus-stop, but it's as central as
you can get. Although Madrid is an enormous metropolis, the
region which is of most interest to travellers is confined by
Campo del Moro in the west and Parque del Buen Retiro in the
east. The most exciting street is Gran Vía, but Plaza
Mayor is the true heart of Madrid.Be
sure not to miss one of the greatest art galleries in the world,
the Museo del Prado, where the main emphasis is on Spanish,
Flemish and Italian art from the 15th to 19th centuries. Goya
is well represented and you'll find a wealth of paintings by
Diego Velázquez. If you haven't run out of steam after
the Prado, the Casón del Buen Retiro houses an
excellent collection of 19th-century Spanish art. For one of
the best art history lessons you'll ever get, check out the
Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza, a private assembly of paintings
from Titian to Pollock. The Museo de la Escultura Abstracta,
has an interesting collection of abstracts by some of Spain's
better known modern sculptors, including Chillida and Miró.
The beautiful Real Jardin Botánico, near the Prado,
is a good spot to recover from an art overdose.For
the little bit of interior decorator in everyone, visit the
Palacio Real, if only as a lesson in what can happen
when you give yourself free rein - you'll see some of the most
elaborately decorated walls and ceilings imaginable. If you've
ever got stuck renovating a house, take heart in the stark and
cavernous Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Almudena.
It opened to the public in 1992 after only 110 years under construction.Madrid
is the home of the world's largest bullring, Plaza de Toros
Monumental de las Ventas, and is one of the best places
to see a bullfight (corrida) - if you're so inclined.
For something a little less cruel to animals, check out a football
match when local favourites Real Madrid or Atlético de
Madrid are playing at home. If you're in town on a Sunday morning,
snaffle a bargain at El Rastro, one of the biggest flea
markets you are ever likely to see. This is said to be the place
to go if you want to buy your stereo back, so watch your pockets
and bags.Finding a place
to stay in Madrid is never really a problem. In summer the city
is drained of people, thanks to the horrific heat, so if you
are mad enough to be here then, you may well be able to make
a hot deal on the price. At other times it is still worth trying
to bargain if you intend to stay a while. The Santa Ana area
is one of Madrid's most popular places to stay and it's close
to good restaurants and nightclubs. The epicentre of Madrid's
nightlife is Plaza del Dos de Mayo, in the area known
as Malasaña.
Barcelona
If you only visit one city in Spain,
it probably should be Barcelona. It's sophisticated, elegant
and romantic, but has the energy and raffishness of a port city.
The inspiring and unique architecture of Antoni Gaudí
is evident in buildings such as the Sagrada Família
church and Parc Güell, and its world-class museums
include Museu Picasso and the Fundació Joan
Miró. There is a fascinating old quarter, the Barri
Gòtic, and a night scene that rivals any in the country.As
a starting point, the area around La Rambla, Plaça
de Sant Josep Oriol and Plaça Reial is a good
place to pick up the vibe of the city. There's a buzz of activity
and a constant stream of people promenading and enjoying the
scene. There are hundreds of cafés, bars, shops and sights.In
the north of the city, the fantasyland of Parc Güell
showcases Gaudí's work. For more modernism, try the Passeig
de Gràcia and its surrounds. For one of the best
modern art museums in Spain, head to the Fundació
Joan Miró.Barcelona has an
imposing Gothic cathedral, where each Sunday at noon
crowds gather for the performance of the sardana, a traditional
Catalan dance. Just east of the cathedral is the fascinating
Museu d'Història de la Ciutat (City History Museum),
which features a subterranean walk through excavated portions
of Roman and Visigothic Barcelona.For
retail therapy, the markets are great places to shop. The best
are Els Encants Vells, a good second-hand market at Plaça
de les Glòries Catalanes; the antiques market
on Plaça Nova; and the crafts market at Plaça
de Sant Josep Oriol. There are also enough chic boutiques to
keep the fashion-conscious happy for weeks.When
you're all shopped out, there's always food and drink to pass
the time. Barcelona has a seemingly endless variety of bars
that are much more than just watering holes. The greatest concentration
of bars and restaurants is within walking distance of La Rambla.
There are many places to stay in the old city on either side
of La Rambla.
Toledo
Toledo is one of Spain's most magnificent historical monuments.
It's an intact medieval city of narrow winding streets perched
on a small hill above the Río Tajo. The city is crammed
with fascinating museums, galleries, churches and castles. Unfortunately,
it is also crammed with daytrippers, so travellers wanting to
enjoy the city should stay overnight and explore in the evening
and early morning to see it at its best. The dominant Alcázar
has been the scene of military battles from the Middle Ages
right through to the 20th century. The awesome cathedral,
in the heart of the city, harbours glorious murals, stained-glass
windows and works by El Greco, Velázquez and Goya. Other
attractions include the city's two synagogues, the Iglesia
de Santo Tomé (which contains El Greco's greatest
masterpiece, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz) and the
Museo de Santa Cruz. Archaeologists working on Toledo's
Carranque recently uncovered a 4th-century Roman basilica,
Spain's oldest.
Valencia
Spain's third-largest city, and capital of the province of Valencia,
comes as a pleasant surprise to many. Home to paella and the
Holy Grail, it is also blessed with great weather and the spring
festival of Las Fallas, one of the wildest parties in the country.One
of Valencia's most raved about attractions is the baroque Palacio
del Marqués de Dos Aguas. The facade is extravagantly
sculpted and the inside is just as outrageous. The Museo
de Bellas Artes ranks among the best museums in the country
and contains works by El Greco, Goya, Velázquez and a
number of Valencian impressionists. The Instituto Valenciano
Arte Moderno (Institute of Modern Art) houses an impressive
collection of 20th-century Spanish art. Valencia's cathedral
is also worth a visit. Climb to the top of its tower for a great
view of the sprawling city.
Granada
During the period of Muslim domination of Spain, Granada was
the finest city on the peninsula. Today it is still home to
the greatest Muslim legacy in Europe, and one of the most inspiring
attractions on the Continent - the Alhambra.The Alhambra
is one of the greatest accomplishments of Islamic art and architecture,
and is simply breathtaking. Much has been written about the
fortress, the palace, its patios and gardens, but somehow nothing
can really prepare you for it. The Alcazaba is the Alhambra's
Muslim fortress dating from the 11th century, with great views
of the city from the tops of its towers. The Palacio Nazaries
is the centrepiece of the Alhambra, and is noted for the intricacy
of its stonework. Finally, there is the Generalife -
the summer palace of the sultans, set in the soul-soothing Alhambra
gardens.Granada's biggest attraction after the Alhambra is the
city itself, which is set against the mountain backdrop of the
Sierra Nevada. Simply wandering around the narrow streets of
the Albayzín, the city's old Muslim quarter, across
the river from the Alhambra, or the area around Plaza Bib-Rambla
is a real pleasure. Stop by the Casa del Castril (Archaeological
Museum) and Baños Árabes (Arab Baths),
and the Capilla Real (Royal Chapel) in which Fernando
III and Isabel, the Christian conquerors of Granada, are buried.
Next door to the chapel is Granada's cathedral, which
dates from the early 16th century. The caves of Sacromonte,
dug into a hillside in the north of the city, are another popular
attraction.
Seville
Seville is one of the most exciting cities in Spain, with wonderful
parks and gardens, Muslim monuments, flamenco, bullfights and
a large and lively student population. Expo 92 brought the city
into the international spotlight. If you really want to experience
Seville at its best, try to come for Semana Santa (the week
before Easter) or for the Feria de Abril (in April) - a truly
unforgettable experience.Seville's immense cathedral
is listed in the Guinness Book of Records as having an
area greater than any other in the world. This immense structure
is primarily Gothic, though the work done after its central
dome collapsed in 1511 was mostly in Renaissance style. The
climb to the adjoining tower, known as the Giralda, is well
worth the effort for the great views of the city. Check out
the Alcázar, a magnificent palace dating from
the Moorish times of Spain; and the Archivo de Indias,
which houses over 80 million pages of documents dating from
1492 through to the decolonisation of the Americas.Other attractions
are the Parque de María Luisa, which has a maze
of paths, garden beds, pretty little patios, fountains and shaded
lawns; the Museo Arqueológico, which has an interesting
collection of broken statues and bronze tablets; and the rather
kitsch Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares.
San Sebastián
San Sebastián is stunning. Famed as a ritzy resort
for wealthy Spaniards who want to get away from the hordes in
the south, it has been a stronghold of Basque nationalist feeling
since well before Franco banned the use of Euskera, the Basque
language, in the 1930s. Donostia, as the city is known in Euskera,
is a surprisingly relaxed town with a population approaching
180,000. Those who live here consider themselves the luckiest
people in Spain and will not hesitate to tell you so. After
spending a few days on the beaches and a few evenings sampling
the city's sumptuous tapas and nonstop nightlife, you may well
begin to appreciate their unbashful claim.The Playa de la
Concha, and its continuation at Ondarreta, is one of the
most beautiful city beaches in Spain. You can swim from Ondarreta
to Isla de Santa Clara, in the middle of the bay, and
in summer, a number of rafts are anchored at the halfway point
to serve as rest stops.The Museo de San Telmo, in a 16th-century
monastery, has a bit of everything - ancient tombstones, sculptures,
agriculture and carpentry displays, a wonderful fine arts collection
- and the squeakiest floors in Spain. Overlooking Bahía
de la Concha is Monte Urgull, which is topped by a statue
of Christ and has stunning views.
Balearic Islands
Floating in the blue waters of the Mediterranean off the
eastern coast of Spain, the Balearic Islands are invaded every
summer by a massive multinational force of tourists. Not surprising
really, when you consider the fine beaches, relentless sunshine
and wild nightlife. What is surprising is how the islands have
managed to maintain their integrity, identity and strong links
with the past. Beyond the clubs and beaches are Gothic cathedrals,
Stone Age ruins, small fishing villages, and endless olive groves
and orange orchards. There are four islands: the biggest is
Mallorca, followed by Menorca, Ibiza and tiny Formentera. Formentera
is the least developed; Ibiza attracts party animals, gays,
hippies and fashion victims - it's one of the world's most bizarre
melting pots.
Bilbao
Post-industrial Bilbao, the largest city in the País
Vasco (Basque Country) is transforming itself with ambitious
urban-renewal projects, most notably the marvellous Museo
Guggenheim de Arte Contemporáneo. This twist-up of
glass and titanium, designed by US architect Frank Gehry and
inspired by the anatomy of the fish and the hull of a boat,
is the city's showpiece. The contents of this sardine can are
no less stunning than its exterior: works by Serra, Braque,
Kandinsky, Picasso, Warhol and more line its walls and halls.
The Museo de Bellas Artes, just 300m up the road, is
also worth a look. When you tire of art riches, wander over
to the restaurants and bars of the medieval casco viejo. |